Tired of looking at that stock intake and wondering what you can do to clean it up? Maybe add some power while you’re at it to? Well let’s take a look at what we can remove. Here is a rundown of the steps were are going to go through.

1. Tools Needed
2. Stock Intake
-- a. Emissions Parts
---- i. Location
3. Other Emissions Parts
-- a. Location
4. Vacuum lines
5. What to keep and remove
6. Going a Step Further
7. Disclaimer

 - note this is a direct copy from my write-up available in the forums at ka-t.org
1. Tools Needed

- Socket Wrench, 10mm ,12mm ,14mm sockets
- Pilers
- Sheetmetal, to cover EGR opening
- Other various tools depending on how far you go, any questions shoot me an email

Here is a diagram from the FSM of the engine and emissions control devices. They are numbered for easy reading. I will go through the list explaining each item.


 
2. Stock Intake

1. EGR control valve, this controls the quantity of exhaust gas that is let into the intake manifold. It is located on the back of the intake and has a metal tube that goes to the exhaust manifold. This can be removed and no codes should be thrown and no check engine light. If not a 100K ohm, 1/4 watt resistor in place of the EGR temp sensor in its place to fix it.

2. BPT valve, this monitors the exhaust pressure to activate a diaphragm that controls the EGR vacuum. It is located on the back and inside of the plenum and is on top. Really easy to spot. Remove it and no code will be thrown.

3. FPR, this is on the back of the fuel rail and is necessary for the engine to run properly. DO NOT remove it.

4. Pressure regulator control solenoid valve and SCV control solenoid valve. These are located on the back of the head, along with a bundle of hard lines and vacuum hoses. Remove them and that’s it, no codes.

4a. SCV actuator (not pictured), since the SCV solenoid was remove, this must be removed. This is located on the back of the intake manifold. It’s on the right side and controls the butterflies. Once it is removed you can do away with them as well. Each one is held in by two screws. Remove all four plates, the small screw in the middle of the intake and then pull the rod out. You can either have the rod holes welded shut or use JB weld.

5. Air regulator, located on the inside of the intake plenum, basically helps the car warm up when it’s cold. I kept this and if you drive your car in the winter or start it when it is cold you should do the same. Warmer climates probably don’t need this.

6. EGR Control Solenoid, toward the front on the left side and bottom of the intake. EGR is gone, so remove it.

7. IAA unit includes the ACC valve. This is located on the back of the intake plenum and controls the idle of the motor. Its one of the few things I kept and I believe is necessary for a good running, street-able engine.
 
3. Other Emissions Parts
8. AIV case and control solenoid. It’s the big ugly mess on the drivers side strut mount. You’ve probably got rid of it already, but if not, go ahead and throw it in the trash, but be sure to plug the hole in the exhaust or the metal hose.

9. Charcoal canister, big black cylinder on the driver’s side front of the engine bay. Remove, the vacuum lines come later.
 
4. Vacuum Lines
After the removal of all the emissions comes the question of vacuum lines. On my current NA setup I have two vacuum lines, both maybe 2 inches long. How did I do this? Easy, if you have the same setup as me every vacuum line can be removed, except for two. The bundle of hard lines that run down the middle of the intake can be removed and the lines that run to the charcoal canister can go to. I went as far as even removing a hard line that runs from the transmission tunnel to the charcoal canister. It’s the fuel tank vent and the hose needs to be left unplugged.

Now what lines to keep? The FPR will now be the only thing that needs a vacuum source. All I did was run a line from the intake hard line to the hard line on the fuel rail and then a line from that to the FPR.


 
5. What to Keep and Remove
Keep
i. Air Regulator
ii. AAC unit
iii. FPR

Remove
iv. EGR
v. BPT valve
vi. PR and SCV solenoid
vii. SCV actuator and butterflies
viii. EGR control solenoid
ix. AIV case
x. Charcoal Canister

Things Kept


 
6. Going a Step Further
Want to go the extra mile for the clean look? Here’s a few tips on what to do.

• Extend the injector plug wires and other harness plugs and run the wiring harness under the intake.

• Grind off the BPT valve tabs (pictured)

• Remove coolant lines running on plenum and grind off hard lines and block left after removal. (pictured)

• Remove vacuum source on the left side of plenum

• Grind off ECCS

• Paint Cast-Coat Aluminum for a nice finish


 
7. Disclaimer
- I am not responsible for any harm done to your engine by following this guide to removing emissions. I’ve had no problems in the year I have had them removed. If you live in an area with emissions testing I suggest you do not remove anything. Any questions and/or concerns can be sent through a email.

All text and images Copyright ka24et.com owner 2006